Sicilian Street Style: The Hearty Sfincione
When you travel to Sicily, you will find pizza different from any other region in Italy. Known as sfincione, this is a thick, soft, and spongy pizza, often sold in rectangular slices from bakeries and street vendors. It is a food that embraces abundance and rustic simplicity, with a generous drizzle of olive oil and bold flavors. This post uncovers everything you need to know to recreate this style at home.
Origins of Sfincione
The word "sfincione" likely derives from "spongia," meaning sponge, describing the texture. Historically, it was made by mixing leftover dough with tomato sauce, anchovies, onions, and breadcrumbs, then baked in a wood oven. It was a food of the working class, providing an energy-packed meal. Different towns claim their own versions; for instance, Palermo adds caciocavallo cheese, while Catania uses provola.
Our gourmet journey in "Sicilian Street Style" captures these regional variations. The book features 35 recipes, drawing inspiration from the bustling markets of Ballarò and the historic bakeries of Messina. We have also included vegan and modern adaptations to keep the heritage alive while embracing new tastes. The goal is to provide versatile methods that yield the characteristic thickness and airy crumb.
Dough: High Hydration and Long Proof
The essence of Sicilian pizza is the dough, which is quite similar to focaccia. It is high in hydration (around 70-75%) and, often, generous with olive oil, which enriches the crumb. Some formulas include cooked potato, giving a moist crumb. The dough is not stretched but pressed into a well-oiled, sheet pan. This method allows gases to lift the dough, creating significant height—often over an inch.
A slow fermentation is key for flavor. You can make the dough in the morning and bake it the same afternoon, or refrigerate overnight for better taste. We advise using a stand mixer for thorough kneading, but a fold-based method also works. The resulting dough should be pliable and shiny. Proofing is complete when the dough significantly rises and fills the pan edges.
Critical Role of Olive Oil
In Sicilian pizza, olive oil is not just for greasing. It is incorporated into the dough, drizzled on top before and after baking, and used to crisp the bottom. The oil creates a golden, fried-like crust that is distinctively crunchy underneath yet soft above. For authenticity, use a high-quality extra-virgin olive oil with peppery notes to contrast the sweetness of the toppings.
Do not be shy with the amount of oil. At least two tablespoons in the dough and more in the pan. The sheet pan should be generously coated so the dough "fries" as it bakes, which results in the characteristic crust. If you are watching calories, you can reduce the oil, but you will alter the final texture and flavor significantly, so we recommend the traditional approach.
Toppings and Assembly
Sicilian pizza is typically topped without cheese, or with slivers of a flavorful cheese to avoid excessive heaviness. The base sauce is often thick and aromatic, made from sautéed onions, tomatoes, olives, capers, and anchovies. It is spread over the proofed dough, then generously topped with breadcrumbs that have been toasted with garlic and herbs. This layer adds a wonderful texture and absorbs extra moisture.
After baking, additional fresh breadcrumbs and a final oil drizzle are common. Some bakers lay a few slices of aged caciocavallo or provola onto the sauce. In our version, we often add roasted bell peppers or eggplant for color and sweetness. The trick is to bake long enough—usually 25-30 minutes at 400°F (200°C)—until the top is bubbly and the sides are golden brown.
Street Food Experience
In Palermo, sfincione is sold in thick squares, often reheated in the same ovens, wrapped in paper. It is a street food meant to be devoured for breakfast, lunch, or a late-night snack. To mimic this, use a high-sided sheet pan (at least 2 inches) to develop the impressive thickness. Slice it into squares after letting it cool for a few minutes—that's the correct way to eat it.
Pair with a light red wine, like Frappato, or a chilled white like Grillo. If you want a lively beer selection, a crisp pilsner stands up well to the oily richness. There is no limit to the pairings; you simply have to find what works for your palate. The essential part is to share it with friends, as its famished look invites distribution.
Final Tips and Conclusion
Do not worry if your dough is not perfectly square; hand-pressing yields rustic edges that look authentic. Use parchment paper or a silicone mat to easily lift the finished pizza. If you want a darker bottom, bake directly on a preheated stone; if you prefer a softer, bread-like texture, keep the pan and check often. Our book includes troubleshooting and variations, like a gluten-free take that remains light and airy.
Sicilian pizza is a celebration of simplicity and rustic crumbs. We hope this blog post has given you a taste of what the "Sicilian Street Style" book offers, and we encourage you to try making it. We think you'll find it remarkably rewarding. Ciao from Dewey's Pizza!